Відео

I havent go pricing for aussie yet, but i am hoping they will be not too bad. They will be cheaper than most T-Type at least hahahaha! The platings on all chains are cosmetic, some cost more to do. Ie silver is nickel plating - whilst black, gold, rainbow etc is Ti-N - which can cost more. For the existing ybn sla chains, rainbow costs more than black and gold which costs more than silver. Some brands the pricing is all the same all the time which will often mean the price is set for good margin on the most expensive to mfg, and so even better margin on silver vs if they were priced more in line with costs.

no a powerful magnet is a good idea to swish through the wax periodically. Even from normal wear over time fine metal particles can also get into wax

Just to be safe if you are using a Neodymium magnet of unknown grade , keep the wax temperature less than 80°C. Do a search for ... how does temperature affect neodymium magnets If you are buying a magnet for wax cleaning you can get a grade that makes temperature a non issue !

Some have a slow cook option, or manual etc, and then the ability to change the temp. On mine i use manual and then set the temp to 90dg c.

Yes honestly if we could get the majority of cyclists to simply track kms to genuine 0.5% (factoring their riding and conditions) - then the cyclists over time would easily be able to determine for themselves what is good, great, meh, terrible - and not buy the meh or terrible - and that would put pressure on some brands selling really poor performing products (but with powerful marketing, bike store penetration, and benefits for the LBS to sell those brands and products). Overall we have a long way to go re above with still the majority of cyclists never checking chain wear, or if they do that part, matching that to kms and so they just assume that what they are using is good. It can even be that marketing has them convinced such that even if they did get a poor result, wow how much worse things would be if they were not on a product that claimed x / y / z like theirs etc.

yeah i loved it but then i love movies and experiences like that so i am fairly easily pleased on that front! How about yourself?

@@zerofrictioncycling992 I thought that the entire sensory experience of The Sphere show was amazing. I was marginally impressed with the AI robots in the atrium (full disclosure, I work in IT and I was trying to explain how the AI worked to my wife, she just rolled her eyes and walked away, her usual response). Being from the US, I found the story line of the movie to be an interesting choice, that we are ruining the planet via pollution....here in the US, that idea will immediately alienate about 50% of the population. Overall, I would highly recommend The Sphere show to anyone, a truly incredible experience. I would love to see someone strap an 18,000K camera to Tom Pidcock on a huge mountain decent and then turn that into a Sphere experience!

ha yeah.....to be honest im also trying to slowly reduce my work hours..... and i am really going to try to limit that more strictly soon, just too many other things i need to do as well, some of which require a bit of focus and energy - and so the outright speed i can work through everything will not be as rapid as someone going hard 8 to 10 hours a day. This was supposed to be a hobby business, and i really need it to be, so fingers crossed lets see how i go..... :)

Ah yes sorry i may not have been clear there - yes absolutely it is a sram red chain still, so it is same compatibility as normal red, just lighter and more expensive. The Red / force / rival line of chains are for the srams axs road and xplr drivetrains, but not t-type. You can run t-type on axs road, but..... not the other way around. Sram is doing super re compatibility!

Not really, silca sells a pack with stripper and SSS for not much more than the cost of the lube only. Ufo clean, stripper or even the old school spirits/alcohol option are also good and none of them need a silly expensive pot either

Hmmm not sure how one would get that takeaway but maybe i am missing something. Between DT clean, stripper, and now strip chip - thats already 3 very easy methods to prep a chain, all of which compete well on cost vs traditional solvent method. Those 3 methods are all much less time and steps vs degreasing / solvent. And at the end of the day, any one of the prep options at a cost of around $8aud - really that is nothing to worry about when that means your chain on a top lubricant (depending on model and riding) of really anywhere from circa 8000km to 25,000km, as well as the accompanying bigger savings to component wear - which depending on groupset can be huge these days. Ie my new T-Type drivetrain - the chain is $250 aud, and the cassette is $1100 aud. Honestly not immersive waxing, or at the very least a proven top wax lube option - the $$ hit from any level of great wear is going to be very big very quickly. And sadly, there will be lots of mtb riders still who are on T-Type who just ride in the world of dirt and dust with factory grease, and then move to a who knows what wet lube (finish line? muc-off?). That is just big $$ ouch. Just omg so big $$ ouch - a lot of T-Type riders are going to get drivetrain running cost bill shock thats for sure (and after the first hit, then the smarter ones look at doing things differently next chain and cassette). So yeah, $8 to easily prep a chain for a great long life on a top lube choice (and thus great cassette life) - i dont see the same point you have picked up, nor see where that was picked up from - my messaging has been the opposite.

​@@zerofrictioncycling992 My SRAM transmission chains and cassettes aren't quite as costly as you have quoted here .

I find Silca hot waxing inexpensive and easy (see ZFC's "waxed life like a boss" vid) after the initial investment and chain prepping. I wax my commute and road bike often rotating multiple chains. I tend to remove the chain often anyway to work on bike, clean and check bearings running smoothly , so putting the chain in and out of the wax pot is easier than all the faff, waste and mess of wet lube or even drip wax. I really notice the difference riding, and cleaning and maintenance is quicker than before.

@@robertmcfadyen9156 thats aussie rrp. In aus sometimes peeps can purchase from online sellers at under rrp (some of our big retailers have been able to buy direct from sram, bypassing the importer, and so sell at prices everyone else who has to purchase via sram importer cannot match). but purchasing components under RRP, and by how much is not a known thing, so it is easier for me to just assume RRP cost to replace components.

Isn't that a good thing? Sure you have to wait longer for the thing to fully melt but if you were heating the wax via a sensor in the middle isn't it possible the wax on the outside would get too hot? A lot of those wax products have relatively low max temps listed for the friction additives they use. e.g Absolute Black say never exceed 100c.

hmmm - i have a digital thermometer, i will check how long it takes to get to 125 after showing 125 - good thing to flag, it will need to be factored in if its any real delay as the strip chip needs that 125 for 10 mins, so if its not 125 when it says its 125, that will need to be flagged for sure.

@@zerofrictioncycling992 to be fair, it works better when set to 125ºC: above about 100º, the displayed temperature rises slower and 125 is only reached when all wax is melted. But at my usual waxing temperature below 100 it doesn't accurately tell the temperature while the heater is on.

yeah some diy testing vs commercial im not sure if / when could get to, ideally those putting forward DIY should be presenting the testing & proof of their DIY vs me trying to check such. It is relatively difficult to assess these things just based on feel, really i need to wear test a strip chip prepped chain vs DIY prep - which i will add to the list, but yeah.... timeline on that i am not sure...

@@zerofrictioncycling992 I completely agree with you. Still would like to see some proper testing to find out if and how stark the differences would be.

Thanks neil! and not so much, as best is subjective (ie fastest = Dura ace, or best blend of speed and wear life = ybn sla, or ultimate wear life = Shimano link glide lg500 or sram xx1 11) - if you were looking as best $$ for lifespan then link glide lg500 for sure

yes sorry that should be on the list but it is going to be a little further down. I am first going to try to get CS to efficiency test as any differences will show up faster. From my observations the wax is pretty stiff, but i am not yet sure if that is from the strip chip or if HM has changed a little - the pellets these days are shiny grey, used to be dull grey - so i need to do a normal HM wax again on the usual solvent prepped chain and compare to how stiff wax was and its been a fairly long break in - but mind you it was also pretty cold first ride out which does increase wax break in time too. But for sure potential changes from strip chip are on the to do list i just forgot to transpose from mental to the list yest!

@@zerofrictioncycling992 Awesome!

Thank you

​@@zerofrictioncycling992 It's likely Silca put an excess of hardener in the chips. Unless all the factory greases interact in a similar way ( I am wondering is sram is an outlier ) then after 6 chips the imbalance may be significant ? Only Silca know how the 5 ingredients they contain interact with grease when also possibly interacting with base wax ? Silca's order of operation is interesting. Dissolving a chip in the wax at 125°C before adding a chain suggests little short term interaction between wax and the chip. I wonder if it makes any difference if you add the chip after the grease has dissolved in the wax ?

@@dawn_rider yes that is true, i am pretty certain it would not work as planned if not follow instructions. Ie he advises re how much softer the wax becomes from FG of one chain, can the strip chip reverse that after the fact or is it like unscrambling and egg - i am not sure. Over time i will try to confirm such things as i have no doubt there will be those that dont follow the steps precisely, and if things dont go as planned if deviate, then we need to be super clear on the instructions. I have tried to confirm strip chip to wax ratio's, minimum amount of wax for a strip chip etc - but havent been too successful yet. The official line appears to be a) you can use the 6 strip chips with one 500gram bag of wax and b) i think it was minimum of 150ml or 200ml wax? not 100% sure. but for sure if one started with a FG chain and new bag of wax and a strip chip, and then 10,000km later did another chain - the amount of wax will have gone from 500g to 300g ish. And then X time later with another strip chip on another chain, and then another, and another - the strip chip to wax ratio could be / would be very different to the initial strip chip - what does this do overall and how will experiences vary .... at this time is unclear.

I KNOW!!!! I have a condition........ (well, many of them actually....)

what wax are you mixing the marine grease with, and what ratio? I have it on my long list to find / test the most extreme conditions chain lubricant as really as best as i know none of the commercial products can really hold up to the harshest stuff (ie full mudder belgian cx events!). Typically the top immersive waxes hold up the best overall as they are a solid bonded to the chain metal and so are not WASHED off, but will be abraded off by contamination brought in by the water. Many drip / wet lubes are both washed out and abraded off. However all tested have pretty / very limited lifespans in very harsh conditions, so am hunting for something better.

@@zerofrictioncycling992 There are no clear proportions because I use not only wax, but also shoe polish based on it (vaseline more than 30%, wax more than 30%, about 15-30% paraffin, vegetable oil 5-15%) and I use Divinol Fett Top 2003 lubricant about less 5%. Because of the salt, a SRAM 1110 type chain rusts even if the bike is brought into a warm, dry room and partially wiped, but when using this composition, the protection lasts about 60-100 km, if you use lubricants like Addinol Kettenhaft-Spray, they are washed off literally in 20 km if there is a lot of “water”. There are a couple of local bernds who make winter wax mixtures; they collect dirt less actively but also hold up worse.

this one leads to great places tho! :)

Not a silly question at all, and something that need to be factored in re a couple of decisions. 1) For some chains there are re-useable link options from YBN and wippermann (all 10 and 11spd chains, some 12spd chains). 2) Not saying i advocate it, but many also re use single use links circa 5x. It is possibly unlikely that a link has a safety buffer of 1. But this is a very individual risk assessment scenario. I can say over many years of selling IM wax and chains and links, and literally countless numbers of long time waxing customers re using single use links circa 5x - i know of 2 reported failures in 8 years and millions of waxing kms. We have had many more reported chain snaps across all brands, all chains, than master link re use failures. 3) If a re useable link option is not avail for ones chain model, and one is not comfortable to re-use, then in most cases the cost of using a link each time would greatly impact the viability of IM waxing and offset a huge amount of the wear rate savings $$. In such cases one is best to go the hybrid approach (popular approach anyway) - wax, re lube the next 5x with a compatible wax drip (silca ss drip, UFO all conditions, or tru tension tungsten all weather) and re wax on 5th re lube to reset any contamination starting to build, and use a new link. For most this will be re waxing circa 1000km plus for road, and 500 to 750km for offroad, and one still has the vast majority of the wear rate savings, cleanliness and easiest maintenance. For many other drip lubricant options, if one wasnt properly flush cleaning at around the same time anyway - at likely a similar cost to a new link - they will be paying a higher price in wear. So the hybrid approach is the perfect path for many if IM waxing all the time is not suitable. Hope that helps!

@@zerofrictioncycling992 I agree and also do not think those masterlinks are so fragile so as to become unusable from just a couple of re-mounts. Was wondering what a good hybrid approach would be and received the perfect advice. Thanks a lot! Will try it!

In short my testing correlates a lubricants performance based on wear. If a chain is wearing rapidly on X lubricant, it simply cannot be a high performing / low friction lubricant. As we have clean and contamination blocks (dry and wet) - we can track the lubricants performance across a range of cycling conditions, vs just clean lab testing which is what pretty much all other facilities do. Re pedalling technique, - in short one person pedalling and generating 250w of power may do so more "efficiently" than another. What this means is there is a lower physiological or "energy" cost. They will consume less fuel, use less oxygen, produce less lactic acid. This comes from "good technique" - their neuromuscular timing simply ensures the circle they pedal is very "smooth", vs if you can imagine one mashing pedals and "pedalling squares" as they call it. One of the best local racing cyclists is from a track background (was on the aussie 1996 olympic squad) - and when you ride with him his pedalling is so incredibly smooth you could swear the crank is motor driven, it really is just quite stark how magnificent smooth he is, and so vs someone else comparatively mashing on the pedals and bobbing around on the bike - the ex pro is absolutely using less oxygen, fuel and lactate production to produce any given power, which means he will be able to go longer and harder even if both cyclists had the same V02 max and max lactate clearance ability etc. Same in running - some people run with great form, many do not. Just looking at recreational runners i see very few floating along using their forefoot, good core strength, correct stride length and cadence etc, vs the majority that land on their heels and transition to toes, land with heels in front of their body (effectively braking and having to re introduce propulsion each step), twisting side to side and more. The former at 5min per km pace will be using vastly less energy and oxygen and muscle fatige etc at same pace vs the latter runner. There are power lifters with incredible leg strength that will never be world class track sprinters because they cannot convert that power as efficiently into a circle as others who have the neuromuscular timing to do so (often trained from a junior on the track). So for one max sustained power over any time be it 10 seconds or 10 hours - pedalling efficiency . technique is huge. Huge. It can separate the best cyclists just like higher physiological values can. but it is like swimming - it is not easily learned and trained as an adult vs if it is learned and trained as a junior. It for sure can be done, or at least improved, but it often takes time, dedication and often a good coach who can help make sense of what to specifically change from the data you get and how to actually physically implement that change.

Thanks T-Omi - yes main reason for PDF on most docs is to avoid people easily editing and re-publishing (it can be done maliciously and looking like ZFC published something not nice / incorrect). I know there are converters and editors etc but it still has stopped some lower lever fudging of zfc work. Will try to improve some things but mostly the docs are created on word and then pdf converter which can change things around a bit sometimes - alas my time resources for such things are sadly very limited, as it stands many docs are in urgent need of an update, as are some product pages / website etc, some better organisation of information overall and more....just ...... yeah..... i have to somehow get to that. Many products have not been single application longevity tested so that is why they do not appear there. Mostly only the better testing products are put through the S.A.L testing to get the full performance picture for that product. Products that tested poorly in the main test i do not waste the resources to test them in S.A.L - the products single application longevity is basically irrelevant as one shouldnt be using that product. Some good products are not on there that should be on there (silca ss drip, smoove etc) - they were, but the S.A.L test protocol was greatly improved a few years back, so all previous test data for S.A.L scrapped and its been a slow re build since as testing has been extremely busy / booked. I will be trying to get those tests re done this year.... hopefully.

Hey lucas! i have but the initial testing we believe the product was damaged in transit (i bought 3 bottles from starbike - cost me over $300 aud) - but all 3 tested the same, and very badly. (This testing was requested by team Jumbo Visma at the time). Discussion with Dynamic and TJV we are pretty sure the product was damaged so i havent published the test or data, i need to get further in for testing but its been on a low priority as it is really hard to get (feasibly) in many parts of the world still (ie its like $55 aud shipping still for me per bottle) - and so overall global market penetration and global market interest is quite low vs many other products. I have a follower who might be getting me some on travels, but am awaiting. Wax emulsion lubricants are relatively easily damaged in transit - it is something that some mfg's have had to pay very close attention to re how their product moves around the world (ie hours in a freezing cargo hold at low pressure can split the product) - hence we are pretty certain from the very bad results that this is not dynamics actual performance at all, but..... it also means that the results i attained here could occur with consumers if theirs is similarly damaged.

Ha yes no for sure that was checked early, and fans / vents were really clear - all was cleaned anyway as part of taking apart and re doing the thermal paste - and yeah in the end when nothing worked and took to laptop repair guy, he couldnt figure out why CPU overheating either - it shouldnt be, and it was a very sudden onset out of the blue - so something maybe has happened to the CPU itself. That 6k spend did not last as long as hoped......

hey Jack yes - sadly WT-1 is very bad, and the entire marketing claims re very very flawed. I have a detail review for wolf tooth WT-1, for the love of your component lifespan i strongly recommend avoid.

Hey there - no not yet, they are sort of maybe one day on the long list but there are quite a number of such brands / products out there like this, with varying levels of impressive claims to very vague (Mountain Flow is really vague). So it really could be anything from outstanding to terrible, it would be handy if mountain flow would provide more information on the product, their own development, testing, results from that testing vs key competitors etc - just something that helps justify why this product exists and competing in a space with 1000 other options vying against it. There is really very little to justify ZFC testing it vs other products unless this becomes requested like a lot. If you use i would track your chain wear to kms to conditions well and see what you get, and then trying something proven (ie one from the top 15 on the league table) and see how those two go for a start - real world has a lot of variability but still the best products vs meh or poor still easily beat them when people do their own proper assessing (if everyone did that then the likes of M-O and Finish line etc would be in big trouble....)

yeah i really wish WT would do something about selling wt-1! it really is a shocker of a product even for road use, offroad its a grinding paste in no time :(

hey eleanor and yep for sure, honestly i think quite a number of commuters just run whatever (or judging by the horrible squeaking noises - nothing) and ride whatever is on the bike to the point it simply doesnt work anymore - then take action. I dont think any such are watching my videos hahahahahahaha! or really reading much content at all on maintenance, friction and wear. This space is really aimed mostly at those who are running bits that cost some $$ and so we want to greatly extend time to replacement. Even on decent groupsets and derailleur chains - one CAN run them too the point that teeth start breaking off under load - i have done that in my younger days, it just seened like normal behaviour then.... but there are quite some downsides. For one - if one does have a bike they like and even a semi decent level groupset - even tiagra or sora or single speed etc - if one loves their cycling life can be a bit short to ride shite riding bikes. The bicycle is magnificent as it is the most efficient machine in the world, but when one has a good crack at making it ride like one is riding with brakes on and riding through glue - that just detracts from the experience for most i think, even if its just toddling around. sooner or later most will hit some gentle grades or a headwind, and having 50w lost to shite chain, bearings, tiress, of the 80 to 100w one might be cruising around on - its just not the most amazing riding experience vs easily zooming along - which can be easily achieved on most any bike, with really a very small focus on maintenance. Not to mention less mess in case of fixing rear flat vs motor oil. Next can be safety, very worn bits / chains - they are at much high risk of snapping, and a snap chain under stand up power can very easily lead to injuries, even significant ones. For the sake of replacing a $4 chain regularly - i think thats a small investment price to pay to not have an annoying chain snap in the rain, and or me hitting the deck or having my testicles on a hot date with my top tube, something that helped me break my youthful habit of running my drivetrain so long, a lesson i shall never forget no matter how many more decades i am lucky enough to live.

The detailed answer is in the ZFC document zerofrictioncycling CHAIN-Prep-FAQ-Guide-V2 Using UFO drivetrain cleaner is most convenient for 7 chains ! You could also use Silca Chain Stripper which is not covered in the document. Adam will be back from holiday about mid June as he stated at 50:04. I tried to give you vid links but YT has stopped me 3 times 😞

@@dawn_rider cool, thanks, I will try to find the document. Cheers

This is not a perfect explanation as languages are not my strength ( I am English ! ) "Re" means 'again' . "Re-" means 'again and' Try exchanging "Re" for "repeat" / "refresh / "reapply" and in some instances "regarding" e.g. re lube = reapply lube , rewax = reapply wax , re-test = repeat test , re treat = repeat treatment re masterlink = regarding masterlink , pumped out re lubricants = pumped out regrading lubricants , little re lubricants = little regarding lubricants. There are also phrases which you may have difficulty understanding ? ... Page 2 all that and a bag of chips = impressive Page 3 spots wont change = habits won't change Page 3 hoohaa = fuss = too much attention about something not important Page 6 holy batman = expressing a diffcult task page 10 novella = long piece of text but not as long as a novel page 10 twigged re wet lubricants = realised about (regarding) wet lubricants page 13 throwing lipstick on a pig = putting good lubricant on top of bad factory grease and ruining it. page 13 woohoo = expression of joy page 17 alrighty = ok page 19 clicks as captain obvious = the obvious choice page 19 grand ol time = a good experience page 23 yeehaa = expression of joy page 24 cop = endure page 24 ouch = expensive page 25 are golden = will have no issues page 37 ol noodle = brain page 37 rocking up = arrive page 38 way to roll = thing to do page 42 whole shebang down = chain fail As a test I converted the document with google translate from English to German. I then converted the German document back into English. The result made sense in parts although it was far from perfect. You can try google translate but expect confusion !